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Color Burn Technique

Tidal Pool and Sea Stacks – Bandon Beach, Oregon

 Adobe Lightroom, Bandon Beach, Color Burn Technique, Landscape, Landscape Photography, Nikon D3x, Oregon, Oregon Coast, Pacific Ocean, Photography Technique, Photography Trips, Photoshop Technique, Photoshop Workflow, Robert H Clark Photography, Singh-Ray Filters, Split Neutral Density Filters, Twilight Photography  4 Responses »
Oct 022011
 

Tidal Pool and Sea Stacks, Bandon Beach, Oregon. Image shot with a Nikon D3x and a Nikkor 17-35mm lens at 24mm. Image exposed at ISO 100 at f11 for 1.5 seconds.

Hi everyone and welcome to today’s post. Today’s image was shot at Bandon Beach along the beautiful Oregon coastline. I only had time for two shooting sessions at Bandon-afternoon/evening and sunrise. I arrived at Bandon in the early afternoon to a howling gale, high tide, and blowing sand from dunes along the back of the beach. I was hoping to get some dramatic clouds to work into my compositions but I was greeted with clear skies. Scouting for possible shots was a challenge in the contrasty light and I was constantly pelted by sand and debris. I was already tired from the drive and found the beach’s welcome less than hospitable. When you feel this way it is best to back off and just breath a bit. I went back to the hotel to check the weather conditions and the hotel owner told me that the wind would abate for the evening. He promised.

And indeed the wind died. The tide rolled out and left an expansive beach full of tidal pools and amazing rocks covered in mussels and starfish. Though I was hoping for some dramatic clouds I was treated to some amazing pink and magenta twilight light. I found this rock encircled in a tidal pool and set against a back drop of illuminated sea stacks. In the far distance you can see “Face Rock” lying in repose in the Pacific Ocean.

Tidal Pool and Sea Stacks. The Processed RAW file brought into Photoshop.

Technical Details: I used a Singh-Ray 3-Stop, Soft Edge, Split Neutral Density filter to balance the light. The WB was set to 5500K. RAW processing was done in Lightroom with final finishing in Photoshop. Take a look at the RAW file below and you can see the dramatic changes achieved through layer manipulations in Photoshop. The images below illustrate the starting point and some of the details from my processing to achieve the final image.

I almost always start with a Cleaning Layer. I perform some digital gardening in Lightroom but deal with the more difficult spots with the Cloning Tools on a separate layer. I dealt with some color cast issues in the next Layer. Keep in mind that with my first layers I am almost always dealing with Global Image Adjustments. My Detail Image Adjustments are made after Global. So for the color cast I felt the file was a bit too magenta and this was killing off some of the blues in the shot. I used a Curve Layer and adjusted the Red Curve and made a further correction in a Selective Color Layer.

Tidal Pool and Sea Stacks. Images zones worked to achieve the final image.

At this point I began looking at my more specific Detail Image Adjustments based on final vision for the file. In Area 1. I wanted to make some very specific adjustments to bring out the Contrast, Luminosity, and Color in the sea stacks. In Area 2. I wanted to bring out the Contrast, Luminosity, and Color in the rock. And in Area 3. I wanted to make a global Color change to the pool and pick out some minute details.

For Area 1. I used tow Curve Layers, one for increasing the Contrast and one for increasing the Luminosity. By Contrast I am referring to the relative difference between Darks, Midtones, and Lights. Here I am simply making subtle adjustments to the  3/4  Points (darks) Mid Tone Point, and the 1/4 Point (lights). Essentially I am making a slight “S” Curve. For Luminosity I am referring to the overall brightness. This is achieved with another Curve Layer where I am sliding the White Point over towards the Mid Point (see the screen captures below for the dramatic effect this achieves. Since I only want to apply the effect locally I use a Black Layer Mask and paint through to reveal the change.

Screen Shot of the Luminosity Adjustment Layer.

The screen shot below shows the Luminosity Layer turned on to reveal the dramatic difference to the overall brightness of the sea stacks. You will also notice the difference in the sea stack reflection in the water. Painting in the change on the foreground rock also dramatically raised the level of brightness and detail. I had what I needed in overall Contrast and Luminosity so I added a Mid Tone Contrast Layer. This is essentially a targeted High Pass Filter Layer applied to the Mid Tone components of the

Scree Shot of the Luminosity Adjustment Layer turned on to show results.

file. You can search my site for posts on how to make this layer. This was followed by Creative Sharpening applied to a “Merge Visible” Layer. Both this layer and the Mid Tone Contrast are essentially tweaking out contrast against the edges to increase the apparent sharpness of the image. The last piece of the work flow are my Dodge and Burn and Color Burn Layers. I dodge and burn my files extensively. It is essentially painting with light and dark on an Overlay Layer with a 50% Fill. Using a soft brush at low opacity I paint in details where light and shadow meet. It is a painting layer that sculpts the file.

The Color Burn Layer is where I can add and intensify the colors of the files. I have written a post on this as well. Please search the site for the details on how to perform this technique. Hopefully this post has given you some insight as to how I processed this image and some of the various techniques I use to achieve the results. As always if you read this and have any questions please use Contact Form link in the Site Menu and send me an e-mail.

Thanks for stopping by today.

Bob

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Sandstone Wave – Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

 Abstracts, Adobe Lightroom, Arizona, Color Burn Technique, Glen Canyon, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Grand Circle, Landscape, Landscape Photography, National Parks, Nikon D3x, Photography Technique, Singh-Ray Filters, Split Neutral Density Filters, sunset, Twilight Photography  No Responses »
Jun 252011
 

Sandstone Wave, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Arizona. Shot with a Nikon D3x and a Nikkor 24mm PC lens. Image exposed at ISO 100 at f13 for 1/4 of a second.

Hi everyone and welcome to today’s post. In an article I posted on the Singh-Ray blog I talked about photographing images at the edge of light. I am continuing to explore this notion and to attempt to make images that capture the last fleeting moment of light before it disappears. I was shooting in an around the area surrounding this wave of sandstone. Earlier in the afternoon the light illuminated all of the formation, washing out most of the subtle color in the layers of sandstone. As the sun set I started watching the light move up and realized I had an opportunity to capture the edge of light. In this case I was attempting to shoot formation just as the last waves of light hit and before the sun dropped below the horizon. The nice part about this time of day is there is still a lot of soft, ambient light which helps bring out subtle details. The beautiful flakes of stone and striations were full of color-yellows, rose pinks, magenta, and a chalky blue-white. In the distance Navajo Sandstone hills gave way to soft clouds.

This shot is all about the timing and you have to pre-visualize the last strokes of natures light source. You also have to keep your eye on the horizon and watch the suns position as it drops. Within a few minutes of setting up this composition I knew I would get a last brush of light across the top of the wave. In order to maintain the balance of light I prepositioned a 3-stop, Singh-Ray Soft Edge, Split Neutral Density at the point where I believed the last rays of light would strike. Then I just waited and watched the light. I made a few test exposures to check my histogram and then took the shot. Not only did I get a beautiful wash of light across the top but I was able to pick up the subtle illumination of sandstone edges in the wave like striations. As it turns out this was the keeper of the day for me.

The RAW image was processed in Adobe Lightroom to ensure I had enough headroom in the file to bring out the edges and colors. This file is extensively dodged and burned with both light and dark layers to create the 3-D effect evident in the stone. There is also a color burn layer to accentuate the soft colors in the file.

Thank you as always for stopping by to visit.

Hozógo nasádo (Navajo): Walk in Beauty

Bob

 

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Badlands – Big Bend National Park – Photoshop Color Burn Technique

 Badlands, Big Bend, Big Bend National Park, Color Burn Technique, Desert, Landscape, Landscape Photography, National Parks, Photography Technique, Photoshop Technique, Photoshop Workflow, Sony α900, Texas, Zeiss Lenses  8 Responses »
Nov 272010
 

Volcanic Rock and Badlands Landscape, Big Bend National Park, Texas. Shot with a Sony α900 and a Zeiss 24-70mm lens. Image exposed at ISO 100 at f8 for 1/2 of a second.

Hi everyone and welcome to todays post. This image was shot in an area of Big Bend National Park that featured a rugged and beautiful badlands landscape. The area was rich in mineral deposits which was evident in the colorful banding in the rock strata. This image was shot in three focus brackets and combined in Helicon Focus software. I am going to use this image to talk about a Photoshop technique, called a Color Burn Layer, that I use on many of my images to tweak out some color detail. I talked about this at the Big Bend Workshop and some of participants have asked for more detail on how to do the technique.

First a few details. I typically employ this technique when I have an image that has some subtle color and where it might be difficult to isolate via a selection. It is what I would categorize as a regional or selective adjustment and therefore I will always apply it in a non-destructive layer at the top of my layer stack after I have performed all my global adjustments. So lets take a look at the technique.

In the screen shot below is the image before I applied the technique. I have circled several areas within the image that contained some color detail that I wanted to accentuate. this included some very subtle green toned minerals, the violet in the volcanic rocks and some subtle rose colors in the rock. All of these can be adjusted and colored using the Color Burn Layer technique. So now lets go step by step through the adjustments and settings.

Badlands image showing areas to be colored with the Color Burn Layer Technique.

Step 1: Add a new layer at the top of your layer stack. Label this new layer Color Burn. Double click on the new layer and bring up the Layer Style dialog box. Go to Blend Mode and select Color as the layer blending mode at an opacity of 100%. This is the Color Burn Layer you will work on and all your color work can be done here.

Step 2: Go to your Tools Palette and select the Eye Dropper. Using the Eye Dropper click on the color you want to modify. You will get a circle showing the light and dark value of the color. In the screen shot below I have clicked on the green color in the rocks in the middle of the image. The color I have sampled with the Eye Dropper will also appear in your Foreground/Background Color Picker  Box in your Tool Bar.

Step 3: Click on the Foreground Color Box and you will bring up the Color Picker. The Color Picker will show the Color Values from Light to Dark of the sampled color. A small circle will indicate the color you have sampled from the image. In the screen shot below I have circled in red the sampled color. To effectively modify the color you need to pick a value that is lighter than the sampled color. In this case I chose a brighter green indicated by the red arrow. Click OK to select the color and close the window.

Step 4: Make sure you still have the Color Burn Layer selected and go to your Tool Palette and select the Brush Tool. Make sure the Brush is set to 0 hardness. Selected anywhere from 2% to 5% for the Brush Opacity. I generally use 3% on average. You want to apply the effect gradually. Go back to the area you want to modify and brush the color over the area you want to modify. Slowly build up the color to where you are satisfied. You can also sample other colors and apply them in the same way using the same Color Burn Layer. For the final image I used combinations of green, violets, oranges, and rose pinks. You can also add your color selections to your Swatches in the Color Picker just in case you want to repeat an application.

And thats all there is to it. It is a simple and effective technique that can add some additional color punch to your image. If you think you over applied the effect then simply use the eraser Tool over the area and then reapply. If you have any questions please give me a shout and I will be happy to answer them.

Thanks for stopping by today.

Bob

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